“The brand was rooted in SoHo and very inspired by the downtown girl.”
It’s a new era at Derek Lam. Creative director ROBERT RODRIGUEZ has taken the reigns at the label Lam left in 2023 to become the creative director of Italy’s Câllas Milano. AARON ROYCE meets Rodriguez backstage after his debut presentation at Chelsea Industrial.
This is your first collection for Derek Lam.
It was taking what it used to be but really trying to bring things into my own. But keeping in mind Derek Lam, respectfully. I didn’t go very much into the archives, but really the essence of the collection and the woman that he designed for was more about SoHo. The brand was rooted in SoHo and very inspired by the downtown girl.
You used to live in SoHo.
It was about a lifestyle – the downtown girl. I find SoHo inspiring because it is more about the arts, the architecture, the buildings, the cast iron. I looked into that for inspiration and it really helped me put this collection together.
You designed for Halston and had your own brand. What made you want to take over Derek Lam?
I wanted to bring the brand back to its heritage. I was honored to be called to the job – to build a new brand. That fascinated me.
“I wanted it to be a fresh start. I did want to keep in mind the codes of the brand but put my own touch into it. That’s what I accomplished today.”
The downtown inspiration was all over the runway.
I love all the paper leather pieces, the proportions, the layering, the textures. I worked with different fabrications and did a lot of designs like bonding, a lot of fabric manipulations. Detailing is so important.
You didn’t dig too far into the Derek Lam archives, which so many brands are doing right now.
I wanted it to be a fresh start. I did want to keep in mind the codes of the brand but put my own touch into it. That’s what I accomplished today.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BFA
