BY ALEXANDER HANKIN
Christian Cowan always storms New York Fashion Week with wildly creative clothes and a celeb-packed front row. I arrive at the Glasshouse into a dimly lit space. Roars and claps of thunder fill the room. Flashing lights pulse in the darkness. It’s a definite vibe. Grifter turned hipster socialite Anna Delvey is there. So is King Princess, the singer/songwriter from Brooklyn (born Mikaela Mullaney Straus) who is signed to Mark Ronson’s label. My pal Paula Saunders, in Norma Kamali, and I schmooze before the show. I spot my good friend Meredith Marks and fellow Real Housewife Ubah Hassan. One of the many reasons I love Christian’s shows is that it always feels like a family affair.
We take our seats in the front row. I say hi to Vogue’s Ian Malone and my fave It Girl/model Emira D’Spain in a sexy black, lacy two-piece number by Fanci Club and knee-high Givenchy boots. Sitting nearby is Cowan’s beau Sam Smith, flanked by Kesha and Cole Escola.
An hour after start time (shades of Marc Jacobs shows of the past), the lights go up. The entire vibe changes. A chaotic soundtrack – songs play in 20 second bites like a TikTok post – blasts as a model in a lacquered black Judy Jetson ‘do and a pastel bubble-gum wad speckled mini-dress (a nod to a Dan Colen canvas perhaps?) hits the catwalk. There is a skirt made of silver stiletto heels hanging from a jacked trimmed in ashen faux fur, a short white dress made from a fancy bedroom pillow and a feathered series that recall exotic birds in full plumage. The inventive, jubilant collection is a love letter to Cowan’s long-time muse and best friend, Abbie McLaughlin, who tragically died last year. Every look is infused with Abbie’s exuberant spirit, unique quirks and larger-than-life personality. Cowan’s runway invokes the carefree days of childhood, when imagination ran wild, and dressing up was an exhilarating form of play. “Building this brand has been, and continues to be, the greatest pleasure of my life,” Cowan tells Avenue with a beaming smile backstage.
Alexander Hankin, front row at Christian Cowan
“My next goal is to walk a runway by 40,” Paula tells me as we head downtown to the after-party at Casa Cipriani where Crystal Waters is performing. “I absolutely love the way Christian used a mix of real women and glamazons in the show. And the suiting was literally made for me. Bitchy and playful! I can’t wait to boss people around in those little suits!” Snap!
