“Starchitect Kengo Kuma’s MoN Takanawa: The Museum of Narratives, is a stunning cultural hub for art, performance, education, Japanese tradition and of course, technology.”
Diehard Japanophile BURKE HILDNER jets to Tokyo and discovers the city’s buzziest new neighborhood: Takanawa.
Until recently, Takanawa was known for its wooded hills and soaring views of Tokyo Bay and every spring, the cherry blossoms put on a remarkable show of exploding colors. But with the recent unveiling of starchitect Kengo Kuma’s MoN Takanawa: The Museum of Narratives, a stunning cultural hub for art, performance, education, Japanese tradition and of course, technology, the neighborhood is now Tokyo’s hottest destination. And thankfully, Takanawa’s connection to nature and Japan’s ancient past still echoes through the district.
After living on Japan’s southernmost tropical island Okinawa for several years, I’ve come to think of Japan as my adopted, second home. I’ve skied the snow-covered mountains of Hokkaido, dove off remote beaches, and wandered through Kyoto’s ancient temples. I’ve never stopped finding new reasons to fall in love with this country. Okinawa is rarely on most travelers’ lists, but it was the perfect departure point for endless adventures throughout the rest of Japan. Each trip I took revealed a different aspect of the country and I fell in love with how Japan serenely balances tradition with innovation, better than anywhere I’ve ever been.
I moved back to California last year, and while it is great being home, I found myself suffering from withdrawals. I craved the soba noodles and pork sandwiches from Lawsons. The crunchy, buttery fried chicken from Japan’s famous 7/11’s alone was worth a trip back. But really, I missed being in a country where both exhilarating, forward-thinking energy and a calming order are embedded in everyday life.
My cravings became too much to bear so I book a quick trip back and bring my girlfriend, Delaney, so we can experience Japan together. I book a suite at the new JW Marriott Hotel Tokyo in the heart of Takanawa. With the museum opening, there is a lot of buzz about the JW Marriott and its design, centered around the very Japanese philosophy of mindfulness and balance. The perfect spot to explore the neighborhood and dart all around Tokyo.
“After a drink, we check out the pool where large boulders frame the water with soft lighting – a modern, Zen take on a traditional onsen.”
The 200-room hotel is exceptional, combining the best in contemporary design with the Japanese tradition of wabi-sabi, which finds beauty in simplicity, as well as imperfection. Rustic metals, textured stone, natural wood grain and subtly irregular lines create an atmosphere that feels distinctly Japanese. Organic and subtle, rather than forced and ornate.
As I explore the hotel, many of the spaces grow darker and more intimate, conjuring memories of the forest that once covered this part of Tokyo. Other areas are flooded with natural light and have tremendous panoramic views of Tokyo Bay, creating an immersive experience and connection to the landscape that once defined Takanawa. A striking Mount Fuji and luminous glass “Tree House” sculpture anchor the hotel’s interior and serve as the focal point for the rest of the public spaces.
We quickly unpack and then sip some sake and a Sapporo at The Hill, JW’s cocktail and tea lounge where a massive Ficus tree, surrounded by glass sculptures that shimmer like the waters of Tokyo Bay. Nearby is the main restaurant Kakō and Saki, an intimate omakase bar, already a favorite with sushi enthusiasts.
After a drink, we check out the pool where large boulders frame the water with soft lighting – a modern, Zen take on a traditional onsen and the ideal escape after a busy day racing around Tokyo. Delaney and I take a dip, then head upstairs to shower before dinner.
“Beams Cultuart, a project by the cult label Beams, mixes fashion with music and design, a gallery space and a Milk Tea stand, like only the Japanese can.”
I’ve had some astounding meals in Japan, and Kakō ranks amongst the best of them. Dinner is a greatest hits spread of pristine sashimi, perfectly marbled Wagyu, lightly battered tempura, simple soba noodles, and perfectly grilled chicken donburi. Often food at large hotels feels compromised, but that isn’t the case at Kakō. Every dish reminded me of the many authentic meals I’ve had at hidden neighborhood restaurants and mom and pop cafés throughout Japan.
The JW Marriott Hotel Tokyo is in the Linkpillar South development, a recently completed complex with tons of luxury boutiques, art galleries and endless restaurants. The NEWoMan Takanawa, a futuristic mall with an above ground botanical garden and 100-year-old banyan tree, also just opened. In Tokyo, shopping is a samurai sport and NEWoMan is the place to be with the chic, sustainable brand CFCL debuting their largest store and Beams Cultuart, a project by the cult label Beams that mixes fashion with music and design, a gallery space and a Milk Tea stand, like only the Japanese can. Thanks to the new Takanawa Gateway Station, the rest of Tokyo is only stops away.
“Tokyo has one of the best watch collector scenes in the world, and my addiction pulls me into the exciting twists and turns of Nakano Broadway.”
When I go to Tokyo, I give myself a mission, and it usually involves watches. Tokyo has one of the best watch collector scenes in the world, and my addiction pulls me into the exciting twists and turns of Nakano Broadway. We wander the chaotic maze of shops packed with luxury watches, as well as vintage toys and animé – a celebration of Japanese pop culture. Starved after shopping, we decide to find some good ramen and hit Kappabashi Street in Taito City. The area is booming with great food and traditional shops selling handcrafted pottery and kitchenware made by artisans from across Japan. I return home with fragile and delicate pieces that thankfully didn’t break in my suitcase, so I can enjoy a little ohayou gozaimasu each morning with Cheerios in California.
We don’t stop exploring Tokyo, like animated characters in a Studio Ghibli film, turning down random streets, stumbling upon hidden shops, while eating our way through the city. I bring Delaney to Udon Shin, a tiny restaurant I first stumbled upon during my first trip to Tokyo in 2016. Udon Shin is transformative. Located in Shinjuku, it draws a mix of tourists and locals, but on this trip, it leans noticeably local, which is a good sign, especially in Japan. I order a bowl of thick udon with butter and bacon tempura and quickly remember why I’d been thinking of this place for the past decade.
“With Mount Fuji faintly to the left, the Shinjuku towers behind the stage, and the vast stretch of Tokyo unfolding toward the bay, the energy in the room is unmatched by anything I’ve experienced anywhere else in the world.”
We sleep incredibly well in our suite, and start mornings with a swim, and room service breakfast. On our last night, we eat at Sake, the hotel’s omakase restaurant, and have another amazing meal. But all during the trip, I’ve had a surprise up my sleeve. After dinner, I bring Delaney to one of my all-time favorite spots in Tokyo, a place many travelers recognize by name, sight or sound: the New York Bar at the Park Hyatt Tokyo. Made famous by Sofia Coppola’s “Lost in Translation,” the sleek lounge sits high above the city, glowing in dim light and the smooth sounds of live jazz. We sip sake and try cocktails inspired by New York, jazz and Tokyo, as the band plays against a backdrop of glittering skyscrapers. With Mount Fuji faintly to the left, the Shinjuku towers behind the stage, and the vast stretch of Tokyo unfolding toward the bay, the energy in the room is unmatched by anything I’ve experienced anywhere else in the world. It is the perfect ending to the perfect vacation. And yet another reminder of why I want to keep coming back to Japan.
