“I want guests to feel transported the moment they walk through the door.”
At Richard Sandoval’s tán, midtown Manhattan is a million miles away. PETER DAVIS digs in.
Star chef Richard Sandoval has created a culinary oasis in the middle of maddening midtown. It’s a true escape from the city to Tulum, the fashionable beachy destination on the Yucatán Peninsula. Sandoval has more restaurants, spanning 13 countries—more than chef on the planet. tán is his love letter to the fresh seafood-centric tastes and laid-back vibe of Tulum. “I want guests to feel transported the moment they walk through the door,” says Sandoval. And with lush tropical plants, billowing muslin cloth draped from the wood beamed ceiling, and oversized, fringed chandeliers held up by rope, you instantly feel like Manhattan is miles away. It’s the feeling of being magically beamed to not only a different, more exotic land, but a more relaxed, worry-free environment. “Tulum represents a different pace of life,” he explains. “It’s deeply connected to nature, simplicity, and understated luxury. Think barefoot dinners by the ocean, mezcal with friends under the stars, plus a mix of Mayan culture, jungle, and sea.”
The food at tán matches the authentic décor. The Lobster Tacos, a Sandoval staple, are a must, as is the Tikin Xic fish (a whole branzino with zarandeado adobo and plantain purée), rooted in a traditional Mayan preparation but modernized. Sandoval’s son Giancarlo, who serves as tán’s chef, helped develop the dish, which often sells out and is so pretty on the plate, you’ll be snapping shots for your Instagram feed. (A true family business, his daughter Isabella helped open tán shortly after graduating from Cornell’s famous hospitality program.) Equally popular are the fresh ceviches (tuna, fluke, hamachi, and more) and the incredible guacamole, served with charred corn tlayudas, which will have you rethinking just how addictively good guac can be.
“Everything at tán is designed to feel layered, transportive, and connected to the energy of Tulum.”
Dishes are best shared: the shrimp and crab enchiladas (with creamy guajillo sauce and queso fresco) and the prime filet mignon (with a creamy crab and shrimp enchilada) will last about 5 minutes on a table for four. For dessert, the Oaxacan chocolate fudge arrives with vanilla ice cream and salted toffee butter sauce. But don’t miss “Tulum by the Beach”–its rum-infused pineapple, coconut foam and tapioca with mango sorbet which will have you booking a flight on Aeroméxico in minutes. Being an homage to Tulum, which is famed for its nightlife, there is a cozy, chic speakeasy-like lounge downstairs called lúm which serves handcrafted cocktails like a Mexican Negroni and hosts a rotation of live performances on Thursday nights when New York’s night owls fill the room.
Both tán and lúm are something rare in New York–the chance to leave the city behind for a night and visit coastal Mexico without buying a plane ticket. “Everything at tán is designed to feel layered, transportive, and connected to the energy of Tulum,” Sandoval says. “It feels deeply personal. We want the experience to feel sensual, relaxed, and immersive rather than overly formal.” We are already booking a return trip.
tán : 209 East 49th Street #917-388-2248
