“You discover things, you take different paths, and you create. That’s what we love about New York.”
LEE HAYMAN speaks to the designer about his newest collection for Derek Lam.
On a sunny afternoon, Robert Rodriguez presents his third collection for Derek Lam. Americana-inspired without the red, white, and blue, Rodriguez creates utility that you want to wear, infusing an ease to a structured cropped trench or a belted shirt dress. I chat with the designer about the collection just moments before the doors fling open to his presentation.
A vibrant video of blooming flowers is projected on the walls, captured by Rodriguez while on a run through New York. Wildflowers and native grasses transform the space into a dreamy landscape. “I discovered this beautiful meadow on the Upper West Side, almost in Harlem, before the Washington Bridge,” he explains. “I would never think something like that would have existed here.” This is the magic of the city, we agree. Every time you walk out your front door, the possibility of beauty and inspiration is just around the corner. “I was deep in the collection, but from the very beginning it was all about transparency. When I saw the meadow, it had the same colors I was using for spring, and it really inspired me to bring it alive with the flowers.”
“For me, there are so many places in New York where you can choose who you want to be.”
At the helm of a storied New York-infused label like Derek Lam, Rodriguez continues to incorporate the brand’s sensibility while imbuing it with his unique creative take. Structured but laid-back suiting, embellishments that add texture but not fuss. We talk about the evolution of the “downtown girl” that inspired his debut collection for Derek Lam last February, and how discovering new pockets of the city has led to different textures, fabrications, and shapes. “For me, there are so many places in New York where you can choose who you want to be,” he says.
“Utility is one of the biggest things the brand is known for,” he explains as we wander through the space in Chelsea. “In every piece you’ll see some piece of it. Maybe a belt, or certain cuts and proportions. We love oversized pockets and easy, cool dresses you can wear for Spring.” Rodriguez is more playful with this collection. He points to a perfect sheer trench coat, and notes that he was heavily inspired by “transparency and layering different fabrics together to see them as three dimensional.”
The collection offers a new beginning of sorts for Rodriguez, like the reinvention constantly encouraged while living in New York. “You discover things, you take different paths, and you create. That’s what we love about New York.” His love for the city’s energy is everywhere. There’s a promise, hope and energy that is distinct to the city and the women who live here – and that is precisely who Rodriguez is designing for.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BFA
